The Other Calamari

We mostly see squid deep-fried, but there are plenty of other ways to eat calamari.

* Cafe Del Rey: Chef Katsuo Nagasawa makes a wildly eclectic appetizer of grilled baby calamari stuffed with foie gras, sauteed shiitake mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes and fresh herbs. An order of two comes with teardrop tomato salad and Kalamata olive oil. (Grilled baby calamari, $10.50.) Cafe Del Rey, 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, (310) 823-6395.

* Caffe Capri: This inviting cafe makes a refreshing salad of steamed calamari in extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice and garlic, served on tender baby greens. (Calamari salad, $6.95.) Caffe Capri, 2547 Hyperion Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 644-7916.

* Roy’s: Roy Yamaguchi, Hawaii’s favorite chef, offers 35 specials daily, so you might find calamari appetizers, entrees or even pizzas. Two regular appetizers are the lemongrass seared calamari with Thai spaetzle (tiny dumplings) and oyster mushrooms in sambal (Indonesian chile paste) butter and Sichuan-style calamari in a crisp Japanese-style panko crust with roasted peanuts, cilantro and green onions. (Lemongrass seared calamari, $8.50; panko-crusted Szechuan calamari, $7.95.) Roy’s, Newport Fashion Island, 453 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 640-7697.

* Chinois on Main: At lunch, this Franco-Chinese fusion place makes a generous salad of wok-fried calamari with ponzu sauce and Chinese chile paste, served in a crisp wonton cup. Also often available in the evenings on special. (Sizzling calamari salad, lunch $12.50, dinner $19.75.) Chinois on Main, 2709 Main St., Santa Monica, (310) 392-9025.

* Asia de Cuba: This place is known for its calamari fried with chayote squash, mixed with hearts of palm, bananas, chicory and radicchio and tossed in a sesame-orange dressing. Portions are large, perfect for sharing. (Calamari salad “Asia de Cuba,” $13.50.) Asia de Cuba, Modrian Hotel, 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 848-6000.

* La Luna: Chef-owner Robertino Giovannelli makes a light, fresh salad of steamed calamari, potatoes, French beans and asparagus tips with balsamic vinaigrette. (Insalate fattore, lunch $8.50, dinner, $10.) La Luna, 113 N. Larchmont Blvd., Hancock Park, (323) 962-2130.