1998 Cha^teau des Tours Co^tes-du-Rho^ne ‘Reserve,’ Rho^ne Valley, France

This wine has everything you look for in a Co^tes-du-Rho^ne. It’s earthy but not at all heavy in body, and its nose revels in a complex layering of flavors: black olives, red berries, wild herbs--in short, the usual intoxicating Rhone bouquet. Pop the cork, set out a bowl of olives and some crudites and kick back on a shady terrasse.

Made by Emmanuel Reynaud, nephew of the legendary winemaker Jacques Reynaud of Cha^teau Rayas in Cha^teauneuf-du-Pape (whose wines Emmanuel now makes as well), it is a lovely wine that will give pleasure now and in the months to come. Why not put a few bottles away for a year or two and see what they do?

About $11. Available at fine wine shops.