Critic’s review misses the mark

S. Irene Virbila seems to have no idea what authentic Mexican cuisine is like (“Confusion in the Kitchen,” Oct. 31). We knew that we were going to educate people on this matter. That is why we opened the Spanish Kitchen. However, for a food critic to insinuate that soft tacos, guacamole and green enchiladas are the only authentic things on the menu is embarrassing. Soft tacos, like most tacos, are a relatively new item to Mexican cuisine and meant to be eaten as a roadside snack much like a hot dog. It has no place on a dinner menu. And, yes, guacamole was a staple in Mayan cooking; however, so were duck, goat, lamb, beef and all types of seafood including lobster! She claims that white chocolate, duck, lobster and lamb are all “elevated” ingredients. Surely Irene has never been to Mexico. If she had she would know these to be daily ingredients in Mexican cuisine.

She states, “It’s not going to satisfy either the kids looking for their fish taco fix or foodies in search for authentic regional dishes.” First, fish tacos were created nearly 30 years ago in Baja, Calif., and are not “authentic.” Second, all we have are regional dishes. I have done a tremendous amount of research into this project, in addition to the fact that my chef has been doing this for 30 years. I have been a reader of the food and entertainment section in the L.A. Times for many years and never have I been so thoroughly disappointed.

It is sad to see the very thing we are trying to do -- introduce Angelenos to real Mexican cuisine -- has been ambushed by someone who should really know the difference.

Greg Morris

Los Angeles

Greg Morris is the owner of the Spanish Kitchen.