2002 Loimer Gruner Veltliner ‘Lois’

Warm weather is here and with it a need for crisp, light whites. Along with Rieslings, Austria makes terrific wines from the Gruner Veltliner grape. This one from winemaker Fred Loimer in the Kamptal region northwest of Vienna has a light scent of citrus, a lively acidity and a little bit of that white pepper and green apple that makes Gruner Veltliner such an interesting varietal. Loimer’s 2002 “Lois” is not only a fine expression of terroir, it’s also a true bargain. Bring on the seafood -- clams and oysters on the half shell, seared tuna and albacore, grilled whole fish. It shows to advantage with Asian dishes too. In short, a great everyday white for summer.

-- S. Irene Virbila

Quick swirl

Region: Kamptal, Austria

Price: About $10

Style: Lively and crisp

Food it goes with: Shellfish, seared tuna, Asian seafood dishes

Where you find it: Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-3822.