But does it make mayo?

YOUR stand mixer lives on the counter; your food processor is stashed on a low shelf; to use the blender, you need to haul it out of an upper cabinet. How nice it would be if one appliance could chop, puree, blend, whip and fold.

Or at least perform all the functions of a blender and a food processor. You’d treat friends to frozen margaritas anytime they stopped by; you’d make salsa at the drop of a hat.

That’s why we were excited to hear about the new Oster Fusion, which promises to do both -- and using just one jar. Little did we know that Cuisinart and Hamilton Beach also had combined blender-food processors on the market. All cost $100 or under -- far less than most full-size dedicated food processors.

Could they be as good as they promised? We put the three brands to the test, along with two more ambitious, all-in-one machines made by Bosch, which, while more expensive, include a mixer function and other possible attachments. (The Bosch machines are more expensive.)

The upshot? Although the Oster Fusion was a bust -- performing neither blending nor food processing functions very well -- we found a nice surprise in the Cuisinart SmartPower Duet, which did a pretty good job at a very nice price. The Bosch machines, though not perfect, were also something of a revelation.

The Oster Fusion, the Cuisinart SmartPower Duet and the Hamilton Beach Blender Chef have a similar design: a single base with a motor that accommodates either a standard (4- to 7-cup) blender jar or a small (3- to 5-cup) processor bowl (slightly larger than several of the 2 1/2 -cup mini processors). What sets the Fusion apart is that it uses a single jar for both functions.

Two-part test

WE split our tests into two rounds, first measuring blender and then processor capabilities for power, capacity, operation and ease of cleaning. Using blender attachments, we crushed ice, emulsified mayonnaise and pureed hot soup.

The processor attachments were tested by chopping onions, slicing and grating carrots, processing a pico de gallo recipe and whipping cream.

Of the three dual-purpose machines, there was one that met every challenge: The Cuisinart processed all we placed before it and could still blend with the best of them. The generous 7-cup blender whipped a nice, fluffy mayonnaise, evenly chopped the ice and handled hot soup without blowing its lid. The processor, though smaller and noticeably louder than a regular stand-alone, chopped evenly and processed with ease.

The Oster Fusion and Hamilton Beach each promised more than they could deliver. Although both blenders had ice-crushing abilities that would be welcome at any party, the powerful motors were too much for the mayonnaise (the emulsion broke at every try and scrambled slightly in the Hamilton Beach from the heat of the motor).

The processing capabilities for both were also hit or miss. What seemed at first to be the big advantage for the Fusion -- a single jar for blending and processing -- turned out to be its biggest deficiency: The blender-shaped jar simply could not process consistently. And when we pureed hot soup, the kitchen became a Jackson Pollock canvas.

Container shape also turned out to be the Hamilton Beach’s fatal flaw: A well at the bottom of the processor meant some contents were virtually untouched, while others were practically pureed. And the Hamilton does not come with grating and slicing attachment wheels, minimizing its capabilities.

As for the noise factor, both machines were deafening.

Plenty of attachments

THE more ambitious Bosch machines -- the 400-watt Bosch Compact Series and the larger, 700-watt Universal Series Kitchen Machine -- have been available in Europe since 1951 and in the United States since 1968.

They’re designed to process, blend, chop, slice and mix (batters and doughs), in addition to countless other tasks, a list rivaled only by that of the full library of Kitchen Aid mixer attachments, though Kitchen Aid doesn’t offer blender or food processor attachments.

Both Bosch machines worked well, although they took a little getting used to with their unique construction and unusual attachments. Both offer a wide range of options, including an ice cream freezer, a continuous shredder and citrus juicer for the Compact machine; and a grain mill, pasta maker and fruit and berry press for the larger machine.

The Bosch machines are bulky and foreign looking, but fun to use. Both can handle large quantities -- the smaller machine mixes and kneads four loaves of bread at a time, and the larger one, though it does not handle 10 loaves as promised, works with eight comfortably.

The powerful motors caused difficulty in just one area -- making mayonnaise, which broke repeatedly. (The Bosch instruction booklets carry a nontraditional mayonnaise recipe that includes egg whites and sugar but that worked perfectly.)

Bosch processor attachments were competent with each of the tasks tested; the 5-cup capacity was larger than that of the Oster, Cuisinart and Hamilton Beach machines and came with a multitude of slicer and grater wheels for increased versatility.

The only drawback was with the smaller Bosch model: It has no pulse setting, which makes chopping difficult.

Still, for serious cooks, the Bosch machines let you feel -- and perform -- like a professional in the comfort of your own kitchen. And for the active cook who might be a little counter-space challenged, the Cuisinart is a pretty good, well-priced machine.

noelle.carter@latimes.com

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Smooth operator

The Cuisinart SmartPower Duet Blender/Food Processor has a fairly sturdy chrome base and big flat-panel buttons. The 500-watt motor powers a large (7-cup) blender or small (3-cup) processor attachment. A reversible blade system is meant to draw food into the chute for even blending and processing.

What we thought: Best in show for blender-processors. The sturdy blender handled ice and mayonnaise well; the classically shaped processor jar was dependable for chopping. Most of the attachment parts are dishwasher safe and the flat-panel base cleans up easily.

How much: About $100 at Cuisinart.com, Amazon.com,

IKitchen.com.

Out of control

The new Oster Fusion has a single 6-cup glass jar, a six-point blade with reversible 600-watt motor and two preprogrammed and five manual settings.

What we thought: The machine is a disaster: It doesn’t work well as either a blender or a food processor, and it’s so noisy you almost need earplugs. The power is too intense to make mayonnaise; pureeing hot soup sends it all over the kitchen. Nor does the blender-shaped jar allow for consistent processing and chopping. A separate attachment is required for slicing and grating, which it accomplished adequately. Most of the parts are dishwasher-safe; the blade could use a safety sheath -- it’s sharp. Oddly, the manual calls the grater/slicer attachment a “food processor attachment,” which would seem to negate the marketing concept of a true all-in-one machine.

How much: $70; $100 with grater/slicer (food processor attachment) at Target.com and Amazon.com.

The scrambler

The Hamilton Beach Blender Chef 12-Speed Blender with Food Processor Attachment has a powerful 700-watt motor that handles both a large (7-cup) plastic blender jar and a small (3-cup) processor jar. It’s the bargain-priced option.

What we thought: OK as a blender; it fails as a food processor. The blender crushes ice easily and purees soups smoothly, but the heat generated from the powerful motor scrambles a mayonnaise, and the well at the base of the processor attachment prevents it from chopping and processing consistently. The unit is mostly dishwasher safe, but crevices around the buttons on the base can make cleaning it a real chore.

How much: About $40 at Target.com (where it’s known as the Wavepower Plus) and Amazon.com.

Mr. Universe

The Bosch Compact Series Kitchen Machine with Blender Attachment and Multi-Mixer (Processor) Attachment with its 400-watt motor is designed to perform a variety of tasks including blending, chopping and mixing batter for up to four loaves of bread at a time. There’s a 4-cup blender attachment and a 5-cup processor attachment, each purchased separately. A variety of other attachments are available, including a grinder, ice cream freezer and continuous shredder. The blender top has a funnel that allows liquids to be added without splattering.

What we thought: A true workhorse of combination machines; it does everything well except make a traditional mayonnaise. The mixer capability is particularly impressive for its size. The only drawbacks are the lack of a “pulse” button for the processor and the machine’s height: With the blender attached, this machine stands almost 2 feet tall, making it difficult to use for shorter cooks.

How much: About $130 (plus $40 for blender attachment, and $100 for processor attachment; prices for other attachments vary) at boschappliances.com and at Universal Appliance and Kitchen Center, Studio City, (800) 387-2011.

Mr. Universe’s mom

The Bosch Universal Series Kitchen Machine with Multi-Mixer (Processor) Attachment is similar to the Compact model, but with more power (700 watts total) and a “pulse” setting for processing; the blender is included. Other attachments available include a pasta maker, citrus juicer and grinder. This Bosch is a combination machine for the cook with quantity in mind: The blender holds a generous 6 cups, the processor 5, and the attached mixing bowl is enormous. The basic machine has a 14-by-9-inch footprint and weighs in at 12 1/2 pounds.

What we thought: If you have one of these, including attachments, it obviates the need for a wide range of appliances. It’s expensive, but solidly built; it seems like a good investment, with a warranty (three years for the motor and one year for parts and attachments). It’s substantially larger than most countertop appliances.

How much: $370 ($100 for processor attachment; prices for other attachments vary) at boschappliances.com and at Universal Appliance and Kitchen Center, Studio City, (800) 387-2011.

-- Noelle Carter