2006 Vietti Roero Arneis

Arneis, a finicky indigenous white grape, had almost disappeared from Piedmont when Alfredo Currado of Cantina Vietti began to experiment with the grape in the late ‘60s. The crisp whites he eventually began to produce intrigued other winemakers in the area enough to bring about a renaissance of Arneis. But this year, the 2006, may be the best the estate has ever made.

Crisp and light, with a touch of grapefruit and earth, the 2006 Vietti Roero Arneis is tremendously food friendly. It plays well with prosciutto and other salumi, with cheeses, seafood and poultry. Need something to drink with linguine and clams? Or with fried, stuffed zucchini flowers? Try Arneis. Among Italian whites, it’s a standout for its elegance and balance.

--S. Irene Virbila

Quick swirl

Region: Piedmont

Price: About $21

Style: Crisp and complex

Food it goes with: Salumi and cheese, frittata, linguine and clams, seafood

Where you find it: Widely available at fine wine retailers.