Hitting the fig time

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Fresh figs: One of the nicest surprises to come out of farmers markets in the last decade has been the explosion in availability of summer’s fresh figs. Once they were scarce, now they are relatively plentiful. That is certainly something to be celebrated: When a fig is good, there are few fruits that can compete with it. Figs are harvested twice in a year. The first growth, called the breba crop, comes from branches that sprouted the previous year. That’s the harvest we’re seeing now and it’ll last for several more weeks. The second, and larger, harvest comes on this year’s growth and will begin in late summer and run as late as October for some varieties. Because of the geographical distribution of fig orchards in California, the seasons at farmers markets overlap to the point that we’ll have fresh figs with nary a hiccup through fall. Most of the figs we’re finding now are Brown Turkeys or Black Missions. If you have a choice, the Black Missions usually have better flavor. Later in the summer we’ll see Kadotas and Calimyrnas and beyond. Kadotas are primarily drying figs, but Calimyrnas can be quite exquisite. If you see Adriatics or, even scarcer still, Panachees, grab them.

Various vendors, $4.50 per box

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russ.parsons@latimes.com

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Warm fig salsa

Total time: 40 minutes

Servings: Makes 3 cups salsa

Note: From test kitchen manager Noelle Carter. Serve the salsa with savory goat cheese tamales, spread over warm bread, or as part of a cheese course.

1 medium Spanish onion, chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 pint fresh figs, about 1 pound

1 cup dry white wine

3/4 cup chicken broth, divided

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Juice of 1 lemon

1. In a large saute pan over medium heat, combine the onion with the olive oil and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened and just beginning to caramelize, about 12 minutes.

2. Roughly chop half the figs and add them to the pan. Continue cooking until the figs are just starting to break down, 6 to 9 minutes.

3. Add the white wine and one-half cup of the chicken broth to the pan and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring almost constantly, until the wine and broth reduce to a thick sauce.

4. Remove to a food processor or blender and pulse or blend until almost smooth -- there should still be a bit of texture to the salsa.

5. Return the salsa to the pan and season to taste with salt and pepper. Halve the remaining figs lengthwise and quarter each half. Add the fig pieces to the pan and heat over medium-low heat until the fig pieces are just warmed, stirring constantly. Thin, if desired, with the remaining chicken broth. Adjust the seasoning and add fresh lemon juice to taste. Serve immediately.

Each quarter cup: 46 calories; 1 gram protein; 9 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 1 gram fat; 0 saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 49 mg. sodium.

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Grilled fig salad

Total time: 40 minutes

Servings: 4

Note: From test kitchen manager Noelle Carter

1/3 cup walnut halves

Salt

Best-quality olive oil

2 tablespoons minced shallots

1/2 teaspoon chopped thyme

1/4 teaspoon chopped rosemary

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

6 tablespoons best-quality olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

8 ripe figs

1 head radicchio

1 large head fennel

4 ounces fresh goat cheese (one small log)

1. Toss the walnuts with one-fourth teaspoon salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil in a small bowl. Spread the nuts on a sheet pan and toast in a 350-degree oven for 10 minutes. Set aside.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the shallots, thyme, rosemary, vinegar and 6 tablespoons olive oil. Season with one-half teaspoon salt and a grind of black pepper, or to taste. This makes a scant two-thirds cup vinaigrette.

3. Halve the figs lengthwise. Remove any wilted outer leaves from the radicchio and slice it lengthwise into eight wedges. Trim the top off the fennel, and slice it crosswise into half-inch strips, discarding the core.

4. Brush the radicchio wedges with a little of the vinaigrette and place them on an oiled grill heated over medium-high heat. Grill the wedges for about 2 minutes on each side, until slightly wilted with defined grill marks. Remove and reserve in a warm place. Do the same with the fennel.

5. For the figs, brush the cut side with the vinaigrette and place the halves on the grill, cut-side down. After about 30 seconds, rotate slightly and cook for another 30 seconds.

6. Divide the radicchio, fennel and figs evenly among four plates. Crumble the goat cheese evenly over the salads, and scatter the toasted walnuts over each serving. Drizzle 1 teaspoon of the remaining vinaigrette over each salad. Serve immediately.

Each serving: 484 calories; 12 grams protein; 28 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams fiber; 38 grams fat; 11 grams saturated fat; 30 mg. cholesterol; 286 mg. sodium.