Emmys 2012: Major designers come out to play on the red carpet

The Emmys red carpet was once considered the minor leagues, with big-name designers saving their most prized couture creations for film stars to wear at the Golden Globes and Academy Awards.

But no more. This year’s Emmy Awards saw TV stars wearing major fashion — even if it didn’t always work.

Julianne Moore wore a vivid yellow, long-sleeve, knitted cashmere top and silk ball skirt from Raf Simons’ first couture collection for Christian Dior, shown in Paris in July. An insidery fashion choice to be sure, and a modern take on dressing up. But the color and silhouette didn’t particularly flatter her.

The under-the-sea theme has been big on the spring runways. It was on view Sunday night as well, when several red carpet mermaids were dressed in ocean-inspired styles — Sofia Vergara in a backless teal, hand-beaded Zuhair Murad gown; Heidi Klum in a super-sexy aqua chiffon Alexandre Vauthier gown slit thigh-high; and Julianne Hough in a risqué, strapless sea foam green corset gown dusted in sequins by Georges Hobeika.

But Nicole Kidman took the mermaid prize in her sleek, white column gown by Antonio Berardi with scale-like embroidery in all shades of blue.

The current oxblood color trend popped up on the red carpet with Mayim Bialik’s deep burgundy Pamella Roland gown, Julia Louis-Dreyfus’ merlot-colored silk tulle Vera Wang mermaid gown with ruched accents on the bodice and Tina Fey’s strapless deep burgundy gown with corset detailing by Vivienne Westwood. But Ginnifer Goodwin’s Monique Lhuillier dress with a high-low hem was the clear winner in nude tulle embroidered with floral organza in a flame orange color.

Every time there’s a red carpet, you can count on seeing several iterations of the old Hollywood look. Zooey Deschanel chose a Grace Kelly-ish, icy blue tulle sweetheart neckline gown by Reem Acra, which had a skirt that looked to be in tatters. Christina Hendricks played the modern-day Marilyn Monroe in a silver silk taffeta strapless gown with a ruched bodice by “Project Runway” vet Christian Siriano. January Jones’ black chiffon and organza Zac Posen high-low hem “X Ray” gown was an edgier take on the look.

All in all, there were far too many fussy details on the Emmy red carpet. Julianna Margulies’ couture-style green brocade Giambattista Valli gown seemed to be weighing her down, while Elisabeth Moss got lost in all the flowers and folds of her Dolce & Gabbana Mikado-style dress.

Which is why Kristen Wiig really stood out in a romantic white chiffon slip dress from Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere. It looked cool and comfortable on a hot day, especially with her wavy hair worn loose over her shoulders. A truly modern choice.

booth.moore@latimes.com