What to drink with Bludso’s smoked beef brisket?

Now that Bludso’s Bar & Que has opened in the former Tar Pit space on La Brea Avenue, I can indulge in Kevin Bludso’s Texas-style smoked beef brisket more than once in a blue moon. His original locale is in Compton, but the new location, opened in collaboration with Jason Bernstein and James Starr, the owners of the Golden State on Fairfax, is miles closer. It also has an ample, even huge, sit-down area — and a full bar, which is sweet.

And I have the choice of take home or eat there. Whichever, my order is pretty much the same — beef brisket (you want at least half a pound per person), maybe some rib tips, double order of collard greens, same goes for the cole slaw. Can’t resist the baked beans either

The wine list as yet is pretty minimalist, so we brought a bottle of Côtes du Rhône from the great Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer André Brunel. The lightly smoked, beautifully tender brisket loves the bright brambly fruit of a Rhone blend. It has its own dark tones and touch of smoke. The wine doesn’t have to be this particular one, but Rhone in spirit. It could be a Central Coast Syrah from Ojai Vineyards, say.

Bludso’s Bar & Que, 609 North La Brea Avenue, at Clinton Street, Mid-City (323) 931-2583. Brisket, $7 for one-quarter pound, $11 for half a pound and $20 for one pound; sides, $3 to $7. Also at the original location, Bludso’s Bar-B-Que, 811 S. Long Beach Blvd., Compton (310) 637-1349 (check out the video on the website).

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