2008 Bodegas Avanthia Godello Valdeorras

What a rich, beautiful white from Galicia in the northwestern corner of Spain. It’s got everything going for it — definition, minerality, good acidity and a touch of oak. Complex? This bottle could hold its own against a Meursault or a top California Chardonnay.

The grape is Godello, and the grapes come from two old vineyards, 70 and 85 years old respectively. The winery is a project of the Gil family of Jumila, Bodegas Godeval and Spanish wine importer Jorge Ordoñez, who, more and more, is getting into making wine.

Drink it with seafood paella or risotto, seafood stews and with grilled spot prawns. It should be a terrific match with richer fish dishes too.

Region: Valdeorras (Galicia), Spain

Price: About $26 to $28

Style: Rich and complex

What it goes with: Seafood paella and risotto, fish soup, grilled seafood.

Where to find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463, https://www.hitimewine.net; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463, https://www.missionwines.com; Wally’s Wine & Spirits in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606, https://www.wallywine.com; and the Wine Connection in San Diego, (877) 667-9463.