Why you need directions to find Joe Jonas’ new Southern food restaurant in Santa Monica

The name: Hinterland. It translates roughly to the undiscovered land beyond the coast and exploring the unknown -- kind of how you feel stepping into the restaurant due to its lack of visible signage. The chef is Maximilian DiMare, who’s cooking approachable Southern-inflected coastal dishes.

Behind the scenes: In a celeb-filled town, you’d think minority partner Joe Jonas would be the main draw. Maybe so, but the rest of the team has been around too. DiMare worked at the Bay Area’s Wood Tavern and Frascati before heading to the Westside. The sign-less entrance might be the influence of New York-based partners Matthew Hechter and Chris Brandon, whose restaurant Hudson Clearwater has guests wandering around the block in search of a way in.

Where you are: When you’re walking down the sidewalk on part of Santa Monica’s Main Street, there’s a gap in the storefront as it opens up to an outdoor patio, where there are tables and heat lamps. (There’s a small sign engraved on the wall next to the restaurant, but it’s really hard to see.) Behind the patio there’s a dining room with wooden booths on the right and a long bar on the left that overlooks the kitchen. Brick walls, dim lighting, tattooed servers in ripped jeans and perfectly faded, well-fitted T-shirts. Think Abercrombie & Fitch meets Silver Lake.

What you’re eating: House-smoked salmon avocado toast -- because this is a fun twist on the overdone dish, and it has thick-cut pickles, lots of dill and a creamy goat cheese spread. There are also Southern staples such as shrimp and grits -- the grits come laced with chorizo, fava beans and padron peppers. Also on the menu: pan-roasted chicken with grilled radicchio; succotash over grits; and oysters with hot sauce.

What you’re drinking: Since the restaurant serves only beer and wine, maybe go with a glass of rosé.

Who’s at the next table: Couples on their fourth or fifth date, dudes in surfer gear grabbing a beer, women catching up at the bar over small plates and rosé.

Service: Aloof, yet attentive and friendly when you need it. Should you arrive when the host is preoccupied, don’t be surprised if the staff scans you up and down instead of stepping forward to greet you. At the table, they’re there when you want them and gone when you don’t.

Info: 2917 Main St., Santa Monica. (310) 399-0805. www.Hinterland.La

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