CVCHE by Walther Adrianzen: You can taste the chef’s love of Peru

Name of restaurant: CVCHE by Walther Adrianzen

Concept: A 26-year-old Peruvian American chef (originally from El Huarique in Venice) presents his grounded interpretation of a traditional Peruvian restaurant, bravely located on the culturally rich stretch of Whittier Boulevard between East Los Angeles and Montebello.

What dish represents the restaurant, and why? The namesake dish of ceviche, in particular their “Crispy C-V-Che” with crispy calamari rings nestled on top of Peru’s famously addictive leche de tigre lime marinade with spicy aji limo slivers, puffed high-altitude choclo starchy corn and creamy baked yam wedges; the slightly pricier option with sea bass instead of bassa fish is worth it. You can taste the chef’s dedication and love for Peru’s national dish.

Runners-up: Pulpo al olivo, sashimi-like cuts of cooked octopus doused with a creamy, extra-briny sauce emulsified with kalamata olives. Entree-wise under his “De Fondo” list, the seared crust on the salmon is pretty satisfying. Especially when mixed with a few heaping forkfuls of the minty, peppery huacatay herb-inflected hearty quinoa stew next to it, a buttery warm grain salad that takes the rock-star quinoa pseudocereal and mixes it with al dente Andean wheat berries.

Who’s at the next table? Peruvian American extended families, with the older men at the table having just an entire bowl of ceviche all to themselves, as well as a curious local sitting at the bar stopping by for an appetizer of grilled meats to check things out.

Appropriate for: A quiet, unpretentious, casual lunch for one (won’t be awkward, promise) or dinner with a friend or family member, if you’re in the area.

Uh-oh: The place just opened, meaning your food and service are still in the process of being perfected. That being said, don’t be afraid to speak up if something is wrong with your order.

Service: See above.

What are you drinking? Chicha morada, a spiced sweetened drink made from boiled Andean purple corn. A tart passion-fruit water is available as well.

Info: 6426 Whittier Blvd., Los Angeles. (323) 837-9947.

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The Scouting Report is a quick look at restaurants worth a visit. Scouts were selected by restaurant critic Jonathan Gold, who may or may not agree with a single word.