Farmers market report: Okra is in season. We have recipes.
What’s in season: Known for its rather gelatinous texture, okra can be a challenge to cook, even for fans. Found in a number of world cuisines, varieties range in color from vivid green to deep shades of red or purple; the vegetable is typically in season from late June through October. To minimize its viscous texture, look for pods that are small and firm, avoiding okra that is overly ripe or large.
What to cook: Okra is often fried or added to stews, such as gumbo, to thicken them. To keep its syrupy texture to a minimum, cook the pods whole, or cook them quickly, preferably with an acid such as citrus or vinegar. Okra works well added at the last minute to a sour fish soup, or slowly stewed with potatoes and tomatoes; it also makes a great late-summer pickle.
What’s on the horizon: Butternut, kabocha and other varieties of winter squash, typically in season through December, are beginning to show up at farmers market stands.
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SOUR FISH SOUP WITH TAMARIND
Total time: 30 minutes | Serves 4 to 6
Note: Adapted from “Into the Vietnamese Kitchen” by Andrea Nguyen. See the accompanying recipe for tamarind liquid. You also can use canned “fresh tamarind concentrate” (use the same amount as of tamarind liquid). Fresh okra is available year-round at Asian markets. You may substitute snow peas cut into 1-inch pieces (about 3/4 cup). Vietnamese fish sauce is available at Southeast Asian markets.
1 tablespoon oil
1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce
1/4 cup tamarind liquid (see related recipe)
3/4 pound catfish fillet, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup bite-sized chunks fresh or frozen pineapple, not canned (optional)
10 to 12 (about 1/3 pound) okra, stemmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound tomatoes, cored, halved horizontally, seeded and cut into wedges
2 cups (about 1/3 pound) bean sprouts
1 teaspoon ground cumin
5 or 6 sprigs cilantro, coarsely chopped
1. In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes, or until fragrant and soft. Add the salt, sugar, fish sauce, tamarind liquid and 5 1/2 cups water.
2. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, add the catfish and the pineapple, and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the catfish and pineapple are tender but still firm. If you are not serving the soup right away, turn off the heat and cover.
3. just before serving, return the soup to a simmer. Drop in the okra and cook for 2 minutes, or until tender but still firm. Add the tomatoes, bean sprouts and cumin. When the bean sprouts have just wilted, after about 30 seconds, turn off the heat.
4. Taste and add extra salt or fish sauce, if necessary. Ladle into serving bowls and garnish with the cilantro.
Each serving: 139 calories; 11 grams protein; 9 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 7 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 27 mg. cholesterol; 676 mg. sodium.
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