Culinary SOS: Cornsticks from Rotisserie & Wine

Dear SOS: We recently dined at Tyler Florence’s new Rotisserie & Wine in Napa. The cornbread was crisp on the outside and almost custard-like in the middle. It’s not like any of his cornbread recipes online. Can you get it for me?

Jim Brott

Huntington Beach

Dear Jim: Delicately crisp on the outside but light and oh-so-fluffy on the inside, these aren’t your standard cornbread rolls. Rotisserie & Wine’s cornsticks use a dough similar to choux paste, giving them a soufflé-like rise as they bake, richly golden and only lightly sweet. They’re best served just out of the oven.

Rotisserie & Wine’s cornsticks

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Total time: 45 minutes

Servings: 1½ to 2 dozen cornsticks

Note: Adapted from Rotisserie & Wine in Napa. This recipe requires cast iron corn molds.

3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (1½ sticks plus 1 tablespoon) butter

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3/4 cup buttermilk

3/4 cup water

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 cup sugar

1/3 cup flour

1/3 cup cornmeal

6 eggs

1. Place the corn molds in the oven and heat the oven to 375 degrees.

2. In a saucepan, combine the butter, buttermilk, water, salt and sugar, and bring to a simmer over high heat.

3. Remove from the heat and quickly stir in the flour and cornmeal with a wooden spoon. Return the pan to low heat and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, about 2 minutes.

4. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and continue to cook until the mixture has cooled slightly. (Alternatively, stir the mixture vigorously with a spoon in the pan until cooled slightly.)

5. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, until thoroughly combined. (If adding by hand, whisk in the eggs, one at a time, until incorporated. Stir vigorously to keep the eggs from scrambling.) Transfer the mixture to a piping bag.

6. Carefully remove the corn molds from the oven and lightly brush them with melted butter. Quickly pipe the batter into each mold.

7. Place the molds in the oven and bake until the batter is puffed and a soft crust has formed, about 18 minutes. Using a small spatula or fork, turn the cornsticks over in the mold and return to the oven until puffed, crisp and golden, and the inside is cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes more depending on the oven. Remove from heat and serve immediately.

Each of 2 dozen cornsticks: 62 calories; 2 grams protein; 6 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 3 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 52 mg cholesterol; 3 grams sugar; 61 mg sodium.

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