WET AND WILD WITH ROCKIN’ FIG -- RICK FIGNETTI
Happy belated Fourth of July everyone. Surf City has been crowded this
week, with everyone coming down for the holiday week-fest. The parade was
as enormous as ever, and one of these years the mayor’s gonna have a
fully airbrushed surfboardwith an American Flag on it -- I predict --
hanging out ofthe back of the convertible.
The beach’s have been super packed, too, and parking has been a bit of
a problem with all the construction at the south side and Bolsa Chica
parking lots. But the improvements should benefit all with improved
facilities, restrooms and concession stands.
The lifeguards have been busy as well, making rescues because of the
south swell and rip tides.
With the crowds in the water reaching maximum capacity some days, I
think surfers should follow the rules and regulations of courtesy out
there. Most sports have rules and guidelines, but there hasn’t been too
much written about the fine print ofsurfing.
Not that I like the idea, but there’s still two moremonths of summer
left before it thins down again.
First off, when paddling out, always try to paddle around the break.
Most spots usually break in the same place ‘cause of sandbars, reefs,
rocks, piers or jettys. That is usually the takeoff zone. Try to let the
surfer on the wave go by, even ifit means taking some gas being hit by
the wave.
When paddling through a wave, always hold on to your board -- if you
let it go it might hit somebody behind you. Plus it might fly back and
hit you, not to mention your wasting time pulling it back in and getting
back on it. If you get hit by the wave and forced down it will float you
back to the surface,too.
If a peak comes in, the person closest to the curl, or breaking part
of the wave, usually has the inside position and should have wave
possession. If it’s a peak and two surfers are on both sides of it, each
has priority on their own side.
Communication is a good idea. Try talking to someonewhile you’re
paddling, like: “You wanna split it?, I’ll goright you go left.”
Also the surfer who’s farther out has more priority than someone on
the inside -- although you see guys paddling out sometimes try to whip it
around closest to the curl and try to snake the outside guy.
When someone is riding a wave, don’t drop in on them. Most surfers
prefer to ride alone. If you do drop in on them and eat it, you could get
run over, hit by the board or get a ding in yours. Some beginners have to
look back and see that someonealready has it -- wait for the next one.
Don’t be a hogger. Catch your fair share of waves and give waves to
others. You’ll be surprised. You get more respect that way and good
karma, too: The bomb set will come to you.
Some longboarders take advantage of the extra foam, thinking they can
catch everything that rolls in before the shortboarders. The best
longboarders I know usually wait their turn and give waves, too.
The pick a number next up rule should be in effect.
Sometimes, out of respect, surfers will give waves to other surfers,
top pro’s and amateurs, which is nice. You can learn a lot by watching
them work a wave.
Remember there are exceptions to all these rules, but in general if
ya’ keep them in the back of your mind, we can all get along a little
better. Now if we all had our private secret spot it wouldn’t matter, no
worries, but summer’s here and ya’ gotta deal with it.
***
At the Vans Off the Wall Pro at San Clemente pier last month, former
Huntington Beach resident Ryan Simmons went ballistic, winning it,
surfing solid as you can get. Simmons went from fourth in the ratings to
numero uno. Mike Todd of Laguna Beach finished second and was ripping
hard, too. Congratulations.
* RICK FIGNETTI is a six-time West Coast champion, has announced the
U.S. Open of Surfing the last seven years and has been the KROQ-FM
surfologist for the last 15 years where he’s done morning surf reports.
He owns a surf shop on Main Street. You can reach him at (714) 536-1058.
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