Dining Out

Glori Fickling

Perched high above the sprawling sands with a magnificent vista of the

blue Pacific, The Beach House is one of those wondrous dining

establishments that provides more than a seaside setting.

Beyond warm hospitality and the celestial view, there is a comfortably

attractive ambience and delicious dining for brunch as well as dinner

offered daily.

Launched in 1968 the vintage property was the one-time vacation home

of late actor/commedian Slim Summerville. While Laguna Beach was not

especially noted for gourmet cuisine at the time, our town has long since

gained a reputation for some of Orange County’s most noteworthy

restaurants. The Beach House soon jumped on the bandwagon, thanks to the

expertise of longtime restaurateur Gale Pike who has since parlayed this

winner into a trio with two successful clones.

In the summer of 1999 came the first handsome sibling, which reposes

along the water at Cardiff by the Sea. Soon after came a third Beach

House now nestled on the far side of Dana Point Harbor. The decor and

artwork of Pike’s wife Leonora sets a charming tone at every venue, each

of which sports a similar menu. These were created by executive chef Luis

Tzorin in conjunction with director of operations, Pike’s son Matt.

In keeping with the seaside ambience of all three establishments, it

follows that fresh fish dominates these bills of fare. Not the least is

the brunch menu, recently expanded by coordinating the former breakfast

and lunch selections to give a broader early-day choice. Thus an offering

of many and varied entrees. Shellfish crepes, rainbow trout hash, a trio

of omelets and assorted benedicts share the menu with a melange of

seafood salads, sandwiches, prime rib and fresh fish. All are prefaced

with seasonal fruit, a loaf of sourdough and whipped butter. Served every

day in Laguna Beach, on weekends only at the other venues, these range in

price from $7.95 to $17.95.

The dinner menus rate special accolades because of the picture pretty

presentations, delicately sculpted red and yellow turnips and an edible

vanda orchid adorning each plate. Setting tastebuds in motion are such

bivalve preparations as lobster thermidor and bouillabaisse, fresh

denizens of the briny from Cajun mahi-mahi and sea bass en papillote,

landlubber favorites New Zealand lamb chops and chicken Marsala. These

are tabbed from $14.95 to $27.95, the latter for a bountiful New England

clam bake featuring a 1 1/2 pound. Maine lobster, a quartet of littleneck

clams, a tender cob of corn and potatoes au gratin.

Beyond a raft of light and hearty appetizers, are nine incredible

Sunset Dinner bargains served 7 days a week from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. At

$9.95 to $15.99 are such tempters as chicken Marsala, chardonnay poached

salmon and grilled lobster tail.

THE BEACH HOUSE

Where: 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane

Phone: 494-9707

Hours: Open every day. Brunch served 8 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. weekdays,

until 3 p.m. Sat/ Sun.

Dinner from 4:30 to 9 p.m. until 10 p.m. weekends. Sunset Dinners

available 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. every day.