Cedar Creek Inn is a lively landmark

DINING OUT

Strategically located in Laguna’s landmark Lumber Yard Plaza, Cedar

Creek Inn has deservedly earned a reputation for consistently

delicious culinary fare in an always-affordable price range.

Commencing with attractively hospitable ambience, which beckoned to

locals when the Ayres family launched their handsome French Normandy

style restaurant in October of 1988, this charming venue is equally

accessible to those driving from out of town. Going from Canyon Road

to Forest Avenue, then taking a quick right on Ocean Avenue, visitors

are assured of complimentary parking when turning left into the

valet-attended underground lot.

It takes more than location, however, to spell long-term success

for any business and here, warm hospitality has been as well earned

as the inviting home-style-setting and enticing menu. Seating options

range from the central area where a spacious bar bustles with

activity, nightly entertainment and a crackling fireplace, the

flower-laden alfresco patio facing street side and an intimate rear

dining room.

The interestingly diversified bill of fare starts at Sunday brunch

with a wide selection of salads and as many breakfast favorites,

these tabbed from $5.95 for nut crunchy granola with fresh fruit to

$11.95 for a hefty toss of greens with barbecued chicken, bleu

cheese, spicy peanuts and crisp tortilla strips. Attesting to

international variety are such popular lunch specialties as stir

fried chicken and shrimp accompanied with sticky rice and

orange-ginger sauce, steak or vegetarian quesadillas, crab/scallop

cakes, fish tacos and the inimitable angel hair pasta resplendent

with goat cheese, garlic, basil and toasted pine nuts. These are in

the $9 to $12 range.

Scanning the dinner menu, always augmented with nightly quotes,

are about half dozen a la carte choices at $12 to $15 and more than a

dozen table d’hote selections which include a Caesar or house salad

or one of two soups du jour. In addition to seven hearty entrees

appealing to steadfast carnivores, there are a half dozen seafood

delights and a tempting pair of poultry preparations. These go from

$18.95 for brie and pecan chicken to $27.95 for pancetta wrapped

filet mignon with a baked portabella mushroom and Gorgonzola over

tarragon cognac sauce, another dollar for pepper/garlic-drizzled rack

of lamb.

You would be hard put, though, to find a more generous slab of

succulent prime rib than served in this welcoming establishment. And

for a hearty dash of down home cooking, check out such flavorful

choices as osso bucco seasoned with roasted shallots, garlic and

Madeira and old fashioned pot roast with German cabbage, mashed

potatoes, applesauce and creamed horseradish. Appetizers are equally

tempting including ahi sashimi, garlic-buttered grilled

eggplant/squash and superbly crisp coconut shrimp seasoned a bit

overwhelmingly with rosemary. There is also a late night Grill Menu

served solely in the lounge.

Among the most revered delicacies for which Cedar Creek Inn has

earned a reputation are desserts, none more delectable than their

seasonal fruit lushes. These may be plump, ripe strawberries or

mouth-watering peaches lavished with whipped cream and cream cheese

in a crunchy walnut crust or a tangy lemon tart with fresh raspberry

sauce, almond-praline ice cream pie with hot fudge and pecan pie

laced with Southern Comfort and strewn with whipped cream.

More than 50 wines are available starting at $17 a bottle, at

least 15 served by the glass from $4.25, plus almost 24 beer and ale

choices. When it comes to cocktails, Cedar Creek Inn has to be the

first locally to herald the martini as a stellar attraction. From the

very beginning this intoxicating libation has been presented in a

crystal ice bucket bearing a small carafe of the potable and an olive

and/or lemon strewn stem. To its further credit, this popular dining

attraction features such popular local talent as Paula Prince, Jon

Gainer and Mike Hamilton who embellish a festive mood Wednesday

through Sunday evenings starting at an early 7 p.m.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at ghoneywest@aol.com.