You heard it on the grapevine

Andrew Edwards

Massimo Navarretta has started his own vineyard a stone’s throw from

the Corona del Mar freeway.

Navarretta has owned Costa Mesa’s Scampi Trattoria Bar and Grill

for 17 years, but is on the verge of closing that lengthy chapter of

his restaurant career. He plans on starting his next venture, a new

restaurant called Onotria, in August. The name means “land of vines”

and Navarretta’s new vineyard has already been planted.

Navarretta wants to use the vineyard not only to produce his own

wines, but to draw his customers closer to the wine experience.

“As you’re drinking a glass of wine, you get the pleasure of

walking through the vineyards,” he said.

Onotria is still a work in progress. The future Italian restaurant

is being built on the site of a former deli and the sounds of hammers

and scent of freshly-sawed wood filled the air Friday as Navarretta

described his new project.

Scampi Trattoria’s bright yellow awning can still be seen from

Newport Boulevard south of 16th Street, but Navarretta said the

restaurant’s days are numbered. He will likely close the eatery

shortly before Onotria’s opening.

The decision to begin a new venture was not entirely his own,

Navarretta said. Around Christmas last year, he learned his lease for

Scampi Trattoria would not be renewed.

Navarretta plans to incorporate a part of Scampi Trattoria into

Onotria. He said he will install a sculpture crafted from vines

growing outside Scampi Trattoria in the new restaurant.

“Vines, in our culture, mean continuity,” Navarretta said.

Navarretta grew up near Naples, Italy and came to the United

States in 1978. He said he has worked around food and wine for three

decades and frequently travels back to Italy for wine tastings.

“There’s nothing negative in my business, only long hours, but

they’re really fun hours,” Navarretta said.

Wine grown from Navarretta’s vineyard will not be ready for

bottling for two to three years, he said. When wine production at

Onotria is under way, he wants to let diners have a close look at his

vats and aging barrels.

“That way people can see a real merlot,” Navarretta said.

For Navarretta, food and wine selections should be governed by

customers, not trends.

“You like merlot? I’m going to get you the best around,” he said.