Close--but not too close--to Pele’s fire

VOLCANO, Hawaii

Warren Costa is holding the delicate leaves between his fingers. Both fernslook exactly alike. But as he turns the fronds over I can see the difference.The underside of one has brown spots, the other doesn’t. One is a Hawaiiannative called kupukupu. The other is a foreigner, the common sword fern. Therethey were, growing quietly together, both nourished by a monster calledKilauea.

Kilauea is one of the most active volcanoes in the world. Its currenteruption has been flowing since 1983. Its slopes range from desert to rainforest to a fearful wasteland of black lava. Because it is the centerpiece ofHawaii Volcanoes National Park, its major points of interest are so easy toaccess that you can hit many of them on your own in less than a day, as I haveon several trips in the past.

This time, I booked a private tour of Kilauea with Costa, owner of NativeGuide Hawaii (808-982-7575; www.nativeguidehawaii.com), because I wanted tosee the volcano from the Hawaiian point of view. The tour costs $300 for oneperson, or $150 per person for parties of two or more, payable in cash ortravelers checks, and lasts seven or eight hours round-trip. He picks you upin his family sized minivan from Hilo-side lodgings or a pre-arranged meetingpoint.

Because these tours are private, they can be customized to the travelers’interests and stamina. But in general, the day is spent in frequent stops,with the short rides between them filled with historical, cultural,mythological and geological explanations -- Costa is a naturalist, nativecultural practitioner and former ranger at Mauna Kea -- and frequent dips intoa bag of chocolate-covered macadamia nuts.

When we stop at the steam vents, Costa leads me away from the raw, gapingroadside examples everyone else sees. I follow him into the brush to get acloser look at two smaller vents still surrounded by the vegetation theyattract. And instead of visiting the exhibits at the Jaggar Museum, we walk toa spot a little apart. Costa tells how this place was sacred to Kamohoalii, ashark god and brother to Pele, the volcano goddess. He says that this area,called Uwekahuna in ancient chants, was a place where the Hawaiian priesthood,or kahunas, offered prayers and ceremonies.

Our call at the rim of Halemaumau Crater finds him comparing the formationson the crater’s walls to so many bathtub rings and pointing out thewhite-tailed tropic birds, or koae kea, soaring around inside. The birds maketheir nests in the crater walls and fly out to feed in the ocean on fish andsquid.

At another stop, we walk a short way to a strange formation called aspatter rampart. Spurting lava left the walls of this embankment splatteredsolid with what looks like the aftermath of a giant food fight with chocolatefrosting.

As soon as we descend Chain of Craters Road, Costa unpacks a lunch ofsandwiches, hummus and fruit drinks, which we consume while perched on rocksnear, but not too near, the coastal cliffs where giant waves crash all around.

The afternoon has us hiking across a wasteland of a lava field -- Costa isa trained lava guide -- to get a good view, from a safe distance, of thecolumn of smoke rising from a particular point on the coast. The steam, hesays, actually contains a deadly mist of sulfuric and hydrochloric acids,created when molten lava meets sea water.

Before we call it a day, we make one last stop at Thurston Lava Tube, theundeveloped part, where we see the cave in its natural condition and study howit was formed: The outer crust of the lava flow cooled and hardened as themolten lava inside continued to flow. When the flow stopped, it left behind atube-shaped cave. They exist all over the island, and this one has been herelong enough that tree roots dangle from the ceiling. It’s a sign that life canconquer the most impossible places.

The downside to Kilauea: Kilauea’s easy access makes it a fool’s paradisewhere some people take risks that can get them injured or killed. The NationalPark Service warns everyone to avoid the edges of cliffs, steam vents andcracks because they are unstable and can give way. Strong winds and roguewaves make the sea cliffs dangerous. Anyone hiking the lava fields shouldwear long sleeves, long pants, gloves (which the guide may provide) andclose-toed walking shoes because lava surfaces can be slippery, uneven andrazor sharp. Carrying water is a must.

The National Park Service further warns that fumes at Sulphur Banks,Halemaumau Crater and the lava’s entry point to the sea are hazardous,especially to pregnant travelers, infants, youngsters and people with heart orrespiratory problems. Responsible tour operators won’t let their clients takeunnecessary risks and, because conditions can change hour-to-hour, will checkconditions at the ranger station before setting off across the lava.

Next week: The Big Island’s big resorts.

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IF YOU GO

Native Guide Hawaii (see main story) is only one of several ways to exploreKilauea Volcano and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Here are some others.

DRIVE IT YOURSELF

You can enter Hawaii Volcanoes National Park for $10 per vehicle, and thepass is good for seven days. The major sights are accessible by car and can betoured in as few as three hours if you keep stops to a minimum and don’t takelong hikes.

If you hope to see an active lava flow, good luck. Conditions can change inan instant, but getting close to a flow can mean a hike of 21/2 to 4 miles(and back) across unforgiving terrain. Even then, the flow may not be on thesurface, so you still won’t be able to see it. For most visitors, the best youcan hope for is to watch the cloud of vog, a mix of deadly gases, that risesfrom the point where the lava enters into the ocean.

TOURS

All prices include tax.

Hawaiian Walkways: The naturalist-guided Kilauea Volcano Discovery Hike($141) departs from the visitor center in the national park, lasts six orseven hours and covers about 6 miles of trails. (800-457-7759;www.hawaiianwalk ways.com)

Hawaii Volcano Tours: The Kilauea Lava Flow tour ($154) picks you up anddrops you off at Hilo-area hotels, cruise dock or airport in seven-passengerSUVs. Guides provide basic gear for the trip -- raincoats, flashlights,walking sticks -- snacks and drinks. (808-966-6620; www.lavatours.com)

Hawaii Forest & Trail: The Kilauea Volcano Adventure ($161) departs fromvarious Kona-side locations for its 12-hour excursion to Hawaii VolcanoesNational Park. Guides pack snacks, lunch, fruit, pastries and drinks, andprovide basic volcano gear such as raincoats and walking sticks.(808-331-8505; www.hawaii-forest.com)

Arnott’s Lodge and Hiking Adventures: The Hawaii Volcanoes National Parkand Lava Hike ($65 for lodge guests; $85 otherwise) adjusts its departurepoints and times according to where the lava is flowing.

The idea is for the guides to get you as close as possible to an activeflow, however rugged the trek. Bring your own gear, snacks and lots of water.(808-969-7097; www.arnottslodge.com)

By air: At least five helicopter companies and two fixed-wing airplaneoperators run flights that focus on or include the volcano.

INFORMATION

Contact the Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau at 800-464-2924,www.gohawaii.com; and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park at 808-985-6000;www.nps.gov/havo.

-- Toni Salama
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tsalama@tribune.com