Camping Out Along Mexico’s Yucatan Coast

CANCUN, Mexico —  A full moon spattered light across the white beach and ripples of water reflected silver as they rushed to shore.

Five captivated campers sat silently in front of their RV at the edge of the beach, not moon-gazing, but intently observing one of life’s cycles in motion--turtle hatchlings escaping from eggs buried in the sand and fleeing to the sea.

This scene is repeated each July and August along the Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo on the Yucatan Peninsula. Campers, in tents and RVs, are among the few outsiders to witness this fascinating sight.

Not much is heard about camping on the Mexican Caribbean. But anyone who reveled in Robinson Crusoe or Jon Hall South Sea Island movies, or any skin divers, sun worshipers or isolationists--should visit the Quintana Roo coast while there are still long stretches of clean white beaches edged by the most seductive sea in the world.

Something for Everyone

The Caribbean coast offers dense groves of coconuts, waterways lined with mangrove trees, archeological remains of the Mayas, scattered villages, small cafes, simple beach resorts as well as a couple of deluxe hostelries with dive shops, primitive camping and a few campsites with full hookups.

Wildlife is rampant, especially tropical birds. The early riser will see bright parrots, toucans, the kite-like frigate bird gliding silently, maybe even a crab husking a coconut and then dragging it up a tall tree to drop and crack open for breakfast.

The easiest way to search out camping beaches is by car. The main coastal highway (307) in Quintana Roo runs parallel to the coast from Cancun to Chetumal but often veers away from the sea. Between the two cities are plenty of wonderful beaches. Many are deserted and a self-contained RV or tent-camper is free to use them.

Narrow, hard-packed limestone roads branch off toward the beach; some are marked and others are treasure hunts. For instance, exploring a road nine kilometers south of Pamul leads to a scenic beach called Xpuha.

A small group of people in thatched huts live in a coconut grove and make their living fishing, weaving hammocks and harvesting and curing coconuts for copra. Seldom any tourists, just friendly villagers. The small cafe on the corner serves terrific fresh fish.

Diving and Snorkeling

The coast is renowned for diving and snorkeling off the Belizean reef, fifth-largest reef in the world; it parallels the coast 280 kilometers south to Chetumal. If you’re a scuba diver with your own compressor and equipment, the Quintana Roo coast offers miles of rich dive spots.

You’ll see fish in garish colors, corals reaching out in exotic shapes, sponge growing in myriad forms. If you need dive equipment, several small resorts along the coast have dive shops where you can rent anything with the presentation of a certified dive card.

At kilometer marker 274 (about one hour’s drive south of Cancun), Pamul beach has 15 trailer pads with hookups including electricity, water and sewers plus use of shower and toilet in the small hotel on the grounds. Daily fee is about $4 depending on the number of people in a party.

Tent camping is permitted for $2 for two persons including use of toilet and shower. A small cafe next to the hotel is run by the family and usually offers fresh seafood and other dishes at reasonable prices.

It’s wise to boil or sterilize drinking water in these isolated areas where water comes from cenotes (wells). A few drops of iodine to one quart of water will do the trick, or use Halazone tablets; check with your pharmacist. Bottled water is available at this little resort.

Tide Pools to Turtles

Beachcombing is productive along the northern rocky shore of Pamul. You’ll see unusual shells, coral and a variety of flotsam brought in on currents.

The water is crystal clear and sea life is vivid in the shallow tide pools surrounded by rock and limestone. Snorkeling is ideal at the reef 40 yards offshore.

Giant, lumbering sea turtles return to Pamul’s beach each summer and lay thousands of eggs in the sand. After several weeks the hatchlings, about three inches in diameter, escape from the leathery eggshells and make their way down the beach to begin life in the sea.

Sadly, one sees fewer turtles each year because of the intrusion of people on land and sea. At sea the turtles are harvested (illegally) in large numbers.

On land, nests are raided by thieves who take the eggs to market in Merida and sell them for high prices to men who believe they have special qualities that enhance virility.

Mankind is only one predator of the turtle. At Pamul more than half of the eggs are scratched up from the sand and eaten by small animals that live in the jungle.

Peninsula Camping

For a camping trip on the peninsula you may fly to Cancun, rent a car or grab a taxi, and drive on Highway 307 until coming to kilometer marker 298 and a sign that says “Captain Lafitte.” A left turn on this dirt road leads to Kai Luum Camptel.

In colonial-safari tradition, it’s camping with a touch of style. Roomy, modern tents are already set up on the beach--no camp cots here. Each tent has large comfortable double or single beds, communal hot and cold showers and clean toilets close by.

Tents are shaded by a shaggy palapa (thatched) roof strung with hammocks facing the sea for lazy afternoon siestas. Expect daily maid service and gourmet dining but no electricity.

Along with sand and sea, the restaurant is one of the attractions at Kai Luum; the food is outstanding. The dining room is a large palapa hut on the beach and dinner is served under the sparkling light of hundreds of candles--what an atmosphere! The owner, Arnold Bilgore, jokes that next to the church, Kai Luum is the biggest buyer of candles in Mexico.

A bar occupies one end of the dining room where people mix their own drinks and with the use of a numbered pegboard, keep track of the tab. The feeling of the resort is like the honor system of the bar--relaxed, friendly.

The price includes breakfast and dinner; May through August, $24.50 per person: November through April, $28.50 double occupancy. Kai Luum closes during September and October (rainy season). Reservations are needed: Camptel Ventures, Box 2664, Evergreen, Colo. 80439, phone (800) 538-6802.

The Lights of Cancun

If you yearn for bright lights, go to Cancun, the newest and most sophisticated resort on the peninsula. It has beautiful high-rise hotels, fine restaurants, entertainment, discos, movies, shops and lots of tourists.

There are no official campgrounds in Cancun, but RVs will find several places to park along the strip. Some hotel parking lots will permit RVs (check with the manager first).

At Cancun’s Playa Linda, right off Paseo Kukulcan, overnight visitors in RVs can stay in the parking lot off the main drag; no hookups.

About eight to 10 kilometers north, on the road to Punta Sam, two campgrounds offer hookups for RVs and are close enough to enjoy Cancun’s attractions.

Along this coast, when not snoozing in a hammock or eating, or sunbathing, swimming or snorkeling, one may visit the Mayan ruins at Tulum or Coba.

The most spectacular Mayan ruin along the coast is Tulum, on a cliff overlooking the blue sea. A half-hour visit gives time to wander the grounds, inspect the old structures and climb to the top of El Castillo (the tallest temple) for a bird’s-eye view of the centuries-old walled ceremonial center.

Off the Paved Path

Continue past the Tulum parking lot on a road that parallels the sea. The road is only paved for about 10 kilometers, then it becomes a potholed washboard lane. It leads to excellent camping beaches, some with facilities, some without. For RVs or tenters several sites there have toilets and showers in coconut groves.

Continuing on this road will take you over a nervous-looking bridge and then to Punta Allen. This lush, tropical locale is an artists’ setting for a lobstering village. There you can either park on the beach with an RV or pitch a tent.

Note: All beaches in Mexico are free to the public.

Another option is to stay at Cuzan Guest House where an American Sonia Lillvik and her Yucatan partner, Armando, operate a laid-back, hammocks-only cabana resort, the only one there. Prices are about $50 to $60 a day (per person) with meals and activities such as fishing and jungle touring.

During the season you eat lobster three times a day. No electricity or sophisticated entertainment, but a fabulous place for stargazers, sun worshipers, bird watchers, fishermen and jungle explorers.

Reservations suggested: Write to Lillvik at Box 703, Cancun, Quintana Roo, Mexico. Allow a couple of months for round-trip mail.