Book Helps Take Puzzled Frowns Off Faces in the Produce Aisle

Fresh Produce--A to Z by the Editors of Sunset Books and Sunset Magazine (Lane Publishing: $6.95, paperback, 128 pp., illus.)

The number of items in supermarket produce sections has doubled since the late 1970s, according to the editors of Sunset Books and Sunset Magazine. They take an encyclopedic look not only at the old, familiar examples, but also today’s newer, more baffling fruits and vegetables in their publication, “Fresh Produce--A to Z.” This is an excellent reference book to have on hand for new recipe ideas or basic information on an unfamiliar fruit or vegetable.

In addition to an in-depth look at 76 fruits and vegetables, 11 features address such subjects as how to open a coconut, ways to dress up vegetables, how to freeze fruit and recipes for can’t-miss fruit pies and no-fuss fruit jams. A glossary of techniques is designed to serve as a basic reference guide to the cooking methods most used in preparing these foods.

The section on eggplant is a good example of the book’s thoroughness. Almost everyone is familiar with the globe-shaped, dark-purple variety, and elongated Japanese eggplants will be recognized by many. However, the varying shapes of white, purple, purple-black, green, orange or striped eggplants pictured in the book will no doubt come as a surprise to all but the most informed.

According to the book, “In general, the long Oriental kinds have smoother flesh, fewer and smaller seeds and thinner skin. Under the skin, however, most varieties are pretty much alike--interchangeable in many recipes. Exceptions are the tiny green Thai bunch eggplants, which add crunch to certain Asian dishes, and the a bitter orange Thai eggplant used in sweet-sour dishes.”

The following excerpted information is typical of that given for each fruit and vegetable listing in the book. Recipes, including the following for Roasted Eggplant Soup, include food value computations for a single serving.

Nutrition. Eggplant is not especially rich in any one vitamin or mineral. A 1-cup portion of cooked eggplant has about 38 calories.

Season. All year; peak July through October.

Selection. Look for firm eggplant that’s heavy for its size, with taut, glossy, deeply colored skin. The stem should be bright green. Dull skin and rust-colored spots are signs of old age.

Preparation. Rinse and pat dry. Cut off and discard stem end; peel, if desired. Cut into cubes or 1/2-inch-thick slices. Halve or slice miniature eggplants lengthwise.

To reduce the amount of oil absorbed by eggplant during cooking, sprinkle cut sides of raw eggplant with salt and let drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Then rinse and pat dry with paper towels.

Cooking methods. Miniature eggplants can be cooked by the same methods as regular eggplants, though you’ll probably need to cut them differently and, in recipes, make some adjustments in amounts.

Baking. Cut eggplant into 1/2-inch-thick slices; brush all sides with oil. Arrange in a single layer in a shallow baking pan. Bake, uncovered, in a 450-degree oven until well browned and soft when pierced, 20 to 30 minutes.

Grilling. Use miniature or small regular eggplants, Cut off stem end, then cut miniature eggplants in half lengthwise or regular eggplants in 1 1/2-inch-thick wedges. Grill until streaked with brown and tender when pierced, 12 to 15 minutes.

Pan-frying. Prepare 1 to 1 pounds eggplant, cutting it into 1/2-inch-thick slices and salting it as previously directed. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add a single layer of eggplant, without crowding; cook, turning as needed, until browned on both sides and tender throughout when pierced, 8 to 10 minutes. Add oil as needed until all eggplant is cooked. Lower heat to medium, if eggplant browns too quickly.

Serving ideas. Top hot cooked eggplant with garlic butter, basil, oregano, marjoram, or minced parsley. Top baked slices with sliced tomato and shredded Cheddar cheese, then return to oven until cheese is melted. Saute cubed eggplant in olive oil with garlic, onions and mushrooms until tender. Spoon sauteed eggplant into pocket bread and top with shredded Jack or Cheddar cheese and sliced black olives. Add raw or sauteed cubes to soups or stews.

ROASTED EGGPLANT SOUP

1 (1 1/2 pounds) eggplant

1 small onion

3 cups chicken broth

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt, pepper

Finely chopped parsley

12 thin sweet red pepper strips

Pierce unpeeled eggplant in several places with fork. Place with unpeeled onion in shallow baking pan. Bake at 400 degrees until vegetables are very tender when squeezed, about 1 1/4 hours. Let cool, then peel.

Whirl eggplant and onion in food processor or blender until pureed. Combine puree and broth in 3-quart saucepan, mixing well. Bring to boil over medium heat.

Add lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish each serving with parsley and 3 pepper strips. Makes 4 servings.