Meals Were Hearty During Lent

NEW YORK —  In the Middle Ages, Lent was an austere time of contemplation and sacrifice--40 days in which the minds of the faithful turned to pursuits more uplifting than pleasures of the palate.

In reality, however, the minds of many of those faithful turned to ways of eating well within the prohibitions. King Louis XIV, it seems, was particularly good at bending the rules without quite breaking them.

A gourmet and something of a glutton, Louis ordered his royal chefs to create dishes that paid lip service to abstinence yet satisfied a king-size appetite for the good life.

According to food historian Joanna Preuss, they found the inspiration they needed among the peasantry.

“Lent recipes are perfect for the coldest months of winter and early spring,” said Preuss, who has worked with Partager wine to adapt some of France’s best historic recipes for the American taste.

“These dishes are hearty and nutritious. They make interesting and unusual use of delicate spices and table wines.”

Preuss stresses that while drinking to excess was frowned upon during Lent (even in France), wine sipped with a Lenten meal was entirely acceptable. And the French used wine copiously to marinate, saute and even enliven sweet sauces.

In all, the Lenten cuisine that emerges from Preuss’ research is wholesome and imaginative.

“French country cooking offers an incredible resource for contemporary cooks,” said Preuss.