A New Look at Lettuce

The brave new produce department is full of wonders unknown to the mainstream just a few years ago, including such exotica as kiwanos, jicama, taro roots and lettuce. Lettuce? Well, just think about it. Envision that long stretch of mist-shrouded leafage: not just crisp-heads in their wrapper leaves but romaine, butterhead and loose-leaf in red, green and chartreuse. Some of it is even hydroponically grown and sold with its roots attached. This happy assortment has been around for a while now, it’s true, but emancipation from iceberg is still a comparatively recent phenomenon.

Good lettuce is delicious plain--just pile up the leaves and forget the dressing. It is also tasty when dressed simply; a splash of flavorful oil and a squeeze of lemon is all you need. In either case, lettuce should be dry. To have dry lettuce always an hand, rinse the leaves well, lay them out an a long sheet of paper toweling and roll it up like a jelly roll. Put the roll in a plastic bag, leave the end open and store in the vegetable crisper.

Lettuce is also very tasty cooked. Use romaine or other firm, strong-flavored types. Cut in wide ribbons and saute in butter, stew in a tiny bit of chicken stock or braise with just enough whipping cream to keep it from burning. Season lightly with salt, lemon or lime juice and a snipping of fresh green herb--chervil and chive are particularly nice.

Lettuce can also be grilled. Quarter firm, small heads, brush with garlic-flavored olive oil and cook over very hot coals, turning once, for about 2 minutes to a side. A single lettuce leaf will add moisture and prevent sticking when used to line the fish-steamer, and a lettuce lid will help prevent dryness when chicken breasts are stewed in the small amounts of butter that are recommended these days.

The leaf wrapping is much lighter than the lightest egg roll dough, but the slightly spicy shrimp and vegetable filling will taste familiar to anyone fond of Oriental food. Don’t be fooled by the awesome length of the ingredient list; this is actually quite easy and swift to prepare, as well as party-pretty.

Cooking takes about three minutes; it’s imperative that everything be ready before starting. So for this recipe I have listed ingredients in order of assembly rather than in order of use.

LETTUCE ROLLS WITH SHRIMP AND VEGETABLES

2 heads Boston or other butterhead lettuce

1 large orange

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon peanut oil

2 large cloves garlic, shredded on large holes of grater

1 inch cube peeled ginger root, shredded as garlic

10 ounces peeled tiny raw shrimp or large shrimp diced 1/4 inch

1 large carrot, coarsely shredded

1/2 cup cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced 1/4 inch

2 jalapeno chiles, seeds removed and reserved, diced 1/4 inch

1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions, including 1 inch green part

1/2 cup clover sprouts or other small, mild sprouts

1/2 teaspoon dark sesame oil, or to taste

Salt

Steamed rice

1/3 cup toasted cashew nuts, chopped medium-fine

1/3 cup lightly packed cilantro leaves, about

Separate large outer leaves from lettuce and make Y-shaped cut in base of each, removing stiff part of rib. Set aside, cut sides up (there should be 12 to 16 leaves).

Combine trimmings with lettuce hearts and shred as for slaw. Set aside.

Shred zest from orange, using large holes of grater.

Place cornstarch in measuring cup and squeeze in orange juice (there should be about 1/2 cup). Stir in hoisin sauce.

Heat wok over medium-high heat until drop of water bounces. Add peanut oil. Stir-fry zest, garlic and ginger 30 seconds, or until light brown. Add shrimp and cook about 1 1/2 minutes, or until opaque. Turn heat to high.

Add carrot, cucumber, jalapenos, green onions, sprouts and shredded lettuce. Stir hoisin sauce mixture to recombine and add to wok. Cook and stir 1 to 2 minutes, until vegetables are just tender and sauce has thickened. Add sesame oil. Adjust seasonings and salt to taste, adding reserved jalapeno seeds, if desired.

Divide hot mixture among lettuce cups. Let heat soften leaves for moment. Fold other sides up and sides in to make little bundles. Arrange, seam side down, on bed of rice. Sprinkle on cashews and cilantro and serve at once. Makes 4 main-dish or 6 Chinese side-dish servings:

Variation: For simpler version do not make rolls. Line serving plate with lettuce leaves, pile on filling mixture and sprinkle with toppings. Serve rice on side.