At Vinnie’s Ristorante, the Owner’s Warm, the Pizza’s Hot

So, when there’s an Italian restaurant on nearly every corner, what is it about Vinnie’s Ristorante that makes it stand out? Maybe it’s Vinnie’s specialty, the white pizza. Or perhaps it’s the pastas, consistently a cut above the norm. Then there’s Vinnie himself--Vinnie Colandrea, the robust man whose presence can’t be missed when he’s around but whose warmth is felt even when he’s not.

Let’s take each, one step at a time. And the first step for us is always a slice (or three) of Vinnie’s white. Officially that’s Apizza Bianchi ($8.95 for a small), a mix of garlic, herbs, oils, lots of Romano and mozzarella and nary a touch of tomato.

That irresistible combination sits atop Vinnie’s chewy dough. This is perhaps the only pizzeria where you don’t see a plateful of gnawed-off dough rinds littering a post-pizza table; that’s because Colandrea started out as a baker in his hometown of Brooklyn, so the dough is no afterthought. Pizza fans will find other combinations as well from the traditional to the exotic (crab in cream sauce).

But to call Vinnie’s a pizzeria may be a disservice. The first Vinnie’s in Placentia (since sold) and a second in Costa Mesa were officially named Vinnie’s Brooklyn Pizza Works. But in the 10-month-old Laguna Hills locale it’s just plain Vinnie’s, and without the subtitle the pastas share equal billing. And deservedly so--Colandrea’s entrees are satisfying, yet rarely predictable.

Uncertain about what to order? Try three tastes in one with the Pot Luck ($7.95). The dish offers half a serving of stuffed eggplant overflowing with ricotta and mozzarella, half an order of lasagna and your choice of cheese-covered meatballs or sausage.

A favorite at our table was the Vito Sausage ($10.50), a lip-smacking dish of rigatoni with mushrooms, onions and sausage in garlic butter and olive oil.

Also recommended: baked penne ($7.50) that one Vinnie’s regular simply describes as “yummmm.”

And don’t pass up an order of zeppoles (eight for $2). The tasty pastry that’s much like giant doughnut holes is a satisfying finish--unless you have time for a trip to New Orleans for a powdery dip into some beignets at Cafe Du Monde.

Once dessert is settled, don’t rush home. With all the garlic taking effect, move over to Vinnie’s oasis of a full bar. The mahogany counter is inviting; the TV is always turned to sports. Looking down from above are the requisite photos of Italian actors or almost actors. The place has friendly Cheers-like qualities.

Which brings us back to Colandrea. As host, he often works the tables, warming up the customers. His staff follows his lead. Ultimately pizza, pasta and personality make Vinnie’s worth a visit.

Vinnie’s Ristorante, 25292 McIntyre St., Laguna Hills. Open Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday till 10:30 p.m. (714) 588-8171.