Kernel Knowledge

Many nutritionists believe that whole grains are better for you than their processed counterparts.

But don’t let that spoil a good thing. Wheat berries--unprocessed wheat kernels that are the primary source of many wheat flours--may indeed be good for you, but the chewy and slightly sweet berries are delicious in their own right.

The wheat berry comprises the bran, germ and endosperm of wheat. The wheat bran supplies fiber, the wheat germ packs a concentration of vitamins, minerals and protein, and the endosperm (the majority of the kernel) is full of starch, protein, niacin and iron. For something that actually tastes good, you can’t ask for much more than that.

Wheat berries, like all other whole grains that are hard and dry, must be softened by overnight soaking before they can be used in recipes (except in soups and stews, where the grains can soften as the liquid simmers). If you’re in a hurry, simmer them in water for about an hour until they become tender.

After they are soaked or cooked, a cup of wheat berries will swell to about 2 1/2 cups. Once softened and drained well in a strainer, they can be refrigerated as long as three days or frozen for up to six months.

The berries freeze best when they aren’t very moist. The best way to dry the berries out is to spread the soaked drained berries on a baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, for about two days. Once they’re packed away in airtight plastic food bags in the freezer, they can be easily sprinkled on salads or added to chili, casseroles, breads, cookies, stir-fries and stews.

Here, wheat berries perk up a fairly simple chicken-broth-based soup. If the wheat berries are not pre-soaked, cook them for about 1/2 hour in the broth before proceeding with the recipe.

WHEAT BERRY SOUP WITH VEGETABLES 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 large cloves garlic, minced 1 medium onion, chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 2 large carrots, coarsely chopped 6 cups chicken broth, preferably low-salt 3/4 cup pre-soaked wheat berries 8 large mushrooms, diced 2 small zucchini, diced 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin Salt Red pepper flakes

Heat oil in 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, add garlic, onion and celery. Cook until vegetables are tender, about 4 minutes, stirring often. Add carrots, chicken broth and wheat berries. Cook, covered, until berries are soft and chewy, about 25 minutes. Add mushrooms, zucchini and cumin. Cook 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and red pepper flakes. (Can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated, or frozen as long as 3 months.) Serve hot. Makes 8 cups, about 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 135 calories; 843 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 1.01 grams fiber.

These bread sticks are easy to make. Rolling is not necessary--they’re simply stretched into their long shape. They also are quicker to make than most yeast breads since the dough needs to rise only once. The wheat berries and rosemary are a delicious combination. The dough may also be baked as a loaf.

WHEAT BERRY BREADSTICKS WITH ROSEMARY 1 package active dry yeast 1 teaspoon sugar 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water (105 to 115 degrees) 2 1/4 cups bread flour 1/2 cup pre-soaked wheat berries 1 1/8 teaspoons salt 1 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary 2 tablespoons olive oil

Stir yeast and sugar into warm water. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.

To knead dough in processor or mixer, put flour, wheat berries, salt and rosemary into processor bowl fitted with metal blade or into bowl of mixer fitted with dough hook. Turn machine on. Add yeast mixture and oil. Mix until dough is moist but still cleans sides of bowl. Add more flour by tablespoon if dough is too wet; add water by teaspoon if dough is too dry. Once consistency is right, mix until dough is supple and elastic, about 40 seconds in processor, about 6 to 8 minutes in mixer.

To knead dough by hand, put flour, wheat berries, salt and rosemary in large bowl. Make well in center. Put yeast mixture and oil in well, and gradually stir flour into liquid. Turn dough onto floured board. Knead until supple and elastic, about 10 to 12 minutes.

Generously flour work surface. Place dough on flour and shape into 8x6-inch rectangle. Drape oiled piece of plastic wrap over dough, oiled-side-down. Let dough stand in warm place until very puffy, about 1 hour (it will not quite double).

Use pizza cutter or sharp knife to cut dough lengthwise into 12 (1/2-inch-wide) strips. Roll strips in flour remaining on board. Gently stretch strips to 14 inches. Place on greased baking sheets, spacing 1 inch apart.

Bake at 400 degrees until well-browned, about 18 minutes, turning after 12 minutes to brown on other side. It may be necessary to reverse baking sheets if bread sticks are browning unevenly. Immediately remove from pan and cool on wire racks. Makes 12 bread sticks.

Each serving contains about: 134 calories; 223 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.24 gram fiber.

As good as couscous (a granular form of semolina pasta) can be on its own, I think it’s even better with wheat berries added. Any vegetables, fresh or leftover, can be used in this recipe--about 2 cups are required. It can accompany any simple main course, or it can be the main meal served with a green garden salad.

COUSCOUS WITH VEGETABLES AND WHEAT BERRIES 1 1/2 cups chicken broth, preferably low-salt 1/2 cup pre-soaked wheat berries 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium onion, diced 1/2 large sweet red pepper, diced 4 medium mushrooms, diced 1 medium zucchini, diced 3/4 cup couscous 3 tablespoons julienned fresh basil Salt Red pepper flakes

Bring broth and wheat berries to boil in 2-quart saucepan. Simmer until berries are tender, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat oil in large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add onion, red pepper, mushrooms and zucchini. Cook 5 minutes.

Add vegetable mixture and couscous to broth and berries. Stir well. Cover. Remove from heat. Let stand 5 minutes. Add basil and season to taste with salt and red pepper flakes. Fluff with fork to combine well. Serve hot. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 188 calories; 250 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.06 grams fiber.