The Steak and Pancake Dinner

Mandel’s latest book is “Celebrating the Midwestern Table” (Doubleday & Co., 1996).

Chinese cooking was the inspiration for this barbecue menu of grilled flank steak, sliced and served on a crisp noodle pancake. The vegetable-laden stir-fry takes the place of a salad.

It’s full-flavored food, easy to shop for and prepare ahead. The meat is marinated several hours and cooked quickly at the last minute. The pancake can be reheated, and warming up the stir-fry takes only a minute. Serve a chilled Chinese beer with the meal and a refreshing lemon sorbet for dessert.

GRILLED GLAZED FLANK STEAK

Flank steak should be served rare to medium rare because it becomes tough when cooked longer. If that’s not your taste, choose a more tender cut of beef.

CRISP NOODLE PANCAKE

1/2 pound vermicelli egg noodle clusters

Salt

Peanut oil

FLANK STEAK

1 (1 1/2-pound) flank steak

3 cloves garlic

1/4 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce

2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar, lightly packed

1/4 cup sliced green onions

1/4 cup cilantro leaves

CRISP NOODLE PANCAKE

Cook noodles in salted boiling water 1 to 2 minutes, separating strands as they cook. Drain. Rinse with warm water and drain again. Toss with 1 teaspoon peanut oil, then toss with 3/4 teaspoon salt. Arrange in 10-inch round on oiled baking sheet. Set aside to cool.

Heat 1 tablespoon peanut oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When oil smokes, transfer noodle round to pan with hands. Cook until browned on bottom, about 6 minutes. Place baking pan over skillet and carefully invert pancake onto pan.

Heat 1 tablespoon more peanut oil in skillet. When hot, slide pancake into skillet on uncooked side. Cook until browned, about 6 minutes. Return to baking sheet. (Note: Pancake can be made several hours ahead and kept at room temperature, or a day ahead and refrigerated, covered airtight. Uncover and let come to room temperature before reheating.)

To serve, reheat, uncovered, at 400 degrees 20 minutes. Place on warm serving platter. Use kitchen shears or pizza cutter to cut into 6 wedges and reassemble into round.

FLANK STEAK

Make shallow cuts in diamond pattern on top surface of steak. Mash unpeeled garlic cloves with back of knife.

Combine soy sauce, water, brown sugar and garlic in large plastic food bag. Add steak and seal bag, turning to coat meat. Chill several hours, turning often. Remove meat from marinade and reserve marinade.

Grill over hot fire (or broil 6 inches from heat source). Sear each side, then cook until rare to medium rare, about 4 minutes per side, depending on thickness of meat. Use sharp knife to pierce thickest part of steak to test for doneness. Brush on reserved marinade occasionally to moisten meat.

Let steak sit 10 minutes tented with foil. Split steak lengthwise down center and cut each half across grain into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Attractively arrange slices over hot noodle pancake and drizzle with accumulated steak juices. Garnish with green onions and cilantro. Serve hot.

6 servings. Each serving:

332 calories; 680 mg sodium; 78 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 23 grams protein; 0.22 gram fiber.

SPRING STIR-FRY 1-2-3

2 tablespoons peanut oil

3/4 pound sugar snap peas

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/3-inch dice

1/2 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems trimmed, cut into 1/3-inch slices

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 1/2 teaspoons minced ginger root

3 cups beans sprouts, soaked in ice water, drained

3 tablespoons oyster sauce

1 1/2 cups thinly sliced green onions

Red pepper flakes

If making ahead to be reheated, cook for less time than called for in the recipe. The vegetables can be kept at room temperature for a few hours, then reheated; they can also be served at room temperature.

Heat peanut oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet or nonstick wok over medium-high heat. When very hot, add peas, sprinkle with salt and stir. Add red bell pepper and mushrooms and stir. Cook until mixture is heated through, about 1 1/2 minutes.

Add garlic and ginger. Stir-fry 30 seconds. Add sprouts and oyster sauce. Stir-fry until mixture is hot, about 20 seconds. Remove from heat. Stir in onions and red pepper flakes. Serve hot or at room temperature.

6 servings. Each serving:

112 calories; 700 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 2.34 grams fiber.