The Golden Grain of Summer

Corn on the cob, cooked simply in a large pot of boiling water with two tablespoons of sugar and then slathered with butter and sprinkled with salt, is my favorite summer indulgence. But I also like to grill corn, put it in muffins and serve it as a relish. It’s a versatile grain.

As soon as corn is picked, its sugar begins converting to starch, which makes the corn less sweet and flavorful. So buy corn as soon as possible after it’s picked and try to cook it the same day, although it can be refrigerated up to one day.

Look for ears with bright green, snugly fitting husks and golden brown silk, not at all dry-looking. The kernels should be plump and milky, even if they are small.

Mandel is author of “Celebrating the Midwestern Table” (Doubleday & Co., 1996).

FARMER’S MARKET CORN RELISH

This relish is best made a day ahead to allow the flavors to blend. Serve it as a condiment or side dish with grilled foods, fried chicken and cold meats. It’s also good as a salsa or as a topping on sandwiches and hamburgers.

2 cups corn kernels cut from 4 ears

1 small tomato, outer shell only, diced

3/4 cup thinly sliced green onions

2 stalks celery, diced

6 ounces slender green beans, sliced

1 red bell pepper, diced

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 tablespoons oil

2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons minced cilantro

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Combine corn, tomato, green onions, celery, green beans, bell pepper, cider vinegar, oil, water, cilantro, red wine vinegar, mustard, cumin, salt and pepper to taste in 2-quart bowl. Toss until well mixed. Taste and adjust seasoning. Chill overnight or up to 3 days.

Toss well before serving. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

10 to 12 servings. Each of 12 servings:

55 calories; 238 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.54 grams fiber.

FRESH JALAPENO CORN MUFFINS

Leftover cooked corn can be substituted for the raw kernels, though the crunch won’t be the same.

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup oil

1 egg

1 cup buttermilk

1 cup corn kernels cut from 2 ears

1 jalapeno, seeded and minced

1 tablespoon minced shallot

1 1/2 cups flour

1/3 cup cornmeal

1 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

Combine sugar, oil and egg in mixing bowl and stir until well mixed. Stir in buttermilk. Add corn, jalapeno, shallot, flour, cornmeal, baking soda and salt and stir until well mixed. Let batter rest 15 minutes.

Ladle batter into 12 paper-lined or greased muffin cups 7/8ths full. Bake at 375 degrees until lightly browned and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Let cool in pan 5 minutes before turning out on rack to cool to room temperature. (Muffins can be made several hours ahead or frozen up to 1 month.)

To serve, reheat on baking sheet at 300 degrees 10 minutes. Serve warm.

12 muffins. Each muffin:

205 calories; 177 mg sodium; 18 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.19 gram fiber.

GRILLED CORN-IN-THE-HUSKS WITH CHIPOTLE BUTTER

8 ears corn in husks

1 to 2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

6 tablespoons butter

1/4 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon salt

Pull husks back from corn without tearing and remove silk.

Puree chiles in blender or mini-food processor. Heat butter, 1 1/2 teaspoons chipotle puree, garlic, cumin and salt over low heat until butter melts and mixture is fragrant, about 5 minutes. Stir until well mixed.

Brush butter on corn and pull husks back over ears. Tie with string soaked in water if necessary to hold husks around corn.

Grill corn over hot coals, turning as necessary (husks will scorch, which gives smoky taste to corn) until done, about 12 minutes.

8 servings. Each serving:

154 calories; 271 mg sodium; 23 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.64 gram fiber.

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Bowl from Soolip, West Hollywood.