Chili

The old, spicy beef dish has evolved: It can be made with other meats, or no meat at all.

* Chili My Soul: This tiny stand serves a dozen highly original chilis a day from a repertoire of about 30--from mild beef chili to habanero mango chicken. They all cook three days, are defatted four times and come with homemade corn bread, garlic bread or tortilla chips and 12 topping choices: capers, roasted pumpkin seeds, even chocolate chips (for that mole bite). (Chili, cup $4.95, bowl $6.95.) Chili My Soul, 4928 Balboa Blvd., Encino, (818) 981-SOUL or www.chilimysoul.com.

* The Griddle: If you don’t get to Encino that often, this restaurant offers five or six of Chili My Soul’s chilis a day. You might find whiskey chili, made with red Bliss potatoes, Irish whiskey and ground beef, or the vegetarian espresso black bean made with black beans, espresso, tomatoes and lime, or the Durango beef, with chipotle peppers, chorizo and corn. (Chili, small bowl $5.95, large bowl $7.95.) The Griddle, 7916 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 874-0377.

* Side Street Cafe: Here they make an old-fashioned thick, slightly spicy chili with beans, ground beef, bell peppers and tomatoes. It comes sprinkled with cheese and chopped onions. (Chili, bowl $4.) Side Street Cafe, 1799 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa, (949) 650-1986.

* Red: The rich, aromatic chunky chicken chili cooks all night with tomatoes, celery, carrots and green peppers. It comes with sour cream and Jack cheese and a basket of sourdough bread. (Chicken chili, $5.95.) Red, 7450 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 937-0331.

* Ammo: The delicious vegetarian chili--leeks, onions, roasted tomatillos, tomatoes, acorn squash, pasilla chiles and white beans--has a deep, satisfying flavor with a gentle bite. It comes with chopped green onions, grated sharp Cheddar and cornmeal muffins. (Chili with cannellini beans, $6.) Ammo, 1155 Highland Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 871-2666.

* Chili John’s: Chef-owner Gene Loguercio makes a Texas-style chili with coarsely ground beef or chicken, cooked for about 12 hours with hot peppers, cumin and oregano. When he can smear it on a piece of bread, he says, it’s done. This rich, dense, spicy chili is served with beans, spaghetti or homemade beef tamales--or all three. You can top with sour cream, Cheddar and chopped onions. (Chili bowl, $4.25 to $6.25.) Chili John’s, 2018 W. Burbank Blvd., Burbank, (818) 846-3611.