Sauvignon Blanc: Beyond Clean, Fruity and Brisk

Sauvignon Blanc is a misused and undervalued grape. Only a handful of wineries try to find its inner soul. True, Sauvignon Blanc rarely approaches the depth and range of Chardonnay, and it can’t compete with the better Viogniers for sheer prettiness. But in great, world-class Sauvignon Blanc, depth of fruit can combine memorably with balance and hints of minerals and smoke.

Unfortunately, these qualities are rarely found in California. Most of our Sauvignon Blancs are clean and a little grassy--simple.

In California, Sauvignon Blanc production is probably a function of economics. Every winery owner and his brother aspires to make great Cabernet, but you’d be hard pressed to find many who give the same attention to Sauvignon Blanc. Producing a wine that will sell for $100 quickens the blood more than a wine that will barely reach into the $20 range.

Fortunately, there are winemakers who try to get beyond “clean, fruity and brisk.” Not that I mean to complain about the pricing of “clean, fruity and brisk,” however. Even quite simple Sauvignon Blanc, when well made, is about as close as there is to a true bargain in today’s wine market.

This look at Sauvignon Blanc primarily emphasizes what California does best, which is to make a likeable, highly serviceable white wine at bargain prices. The prices quoted here are about in the mid-range of the retail marketplace. You will find stores selling these wines for more and, with a search, you can find places where they sell for less. The few wines called Fume Blanc are also Sauvignon Blanc under a different name.

$ 1999 Beckmen Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley, $10. This wine brings together elements of figs, melon, minerals, citrus and a touch of oak in its somewhat slow-to-open aromas and then in its very clean, medium-deep flavors. Its varietal direction is clear, if limited, and the wine should do just fine for present drinking with broiled or grilled white fish preparations.

$ * 2000 Benziger Family Winery, Fume Blanc, Sonoma County, $11. A generation ago, the Benzigers were leading distributors of California wine on the East Coast. Now the family owns vineyards in California and Oregon, and their offerings are frequently among the more price-worthy you will find. This juicy, nicely ripened young wine focuses on sweet melon characteristics with a hint of grassiness to stake its varietal claim.

$ * * 2000 Ferrari-Carano Vineyards, Fume Blanc, Sonoma County, $14. Ripe, well-formed fruit suggestive of melons and peaches takes the lead and never lets go in this open and accessible Fume Blanc. Its light grassiness is never more than a seasoning to the fruit, and the rounded feel and sense of substance allow it to be rich and cleansing on the palate. It is a satisfying wine in its youth and certain to hold and fill out as it ages over the next year or two. If you like Sauvignon Blanc, this is one that you can buy in quantity with full confidence of its future.

$ * 1999 Honig Cellars, Napa Valley, $12. This wine benefits from a bit of age, and its ripe, open, melony character is just the ticket. It has gained a slight roundness in texture while retaining good overall balance and proportion. Wines like this prove that we need not give up an arm and a leg for drinking pleasure.

$ 2000 Karly Wines, Amador County, $8. This modest, unchallenging effort possesses that most desirable of virtues--easy drinkability at an affordable price. It is mild, clean, moderately fruity and nicely balanced throughout and can be served with light fish and chicken dishes or enjoyed well-chilled.

* * 2000 Napa Wine Co., Napa Valley, $18. This is serious wine at a reasonable price. It has beautiful balance and intense aromas of freshly cut grass, figs, green melons and lime, which gain extra dimension from a creamy dollop of oak. This comes about as close to classic Sauvignon Blanc as we get in California, and though it finishes with an edge of coarseness, it will gain smoothness and added richness over the next few years.

$ * 2000 Robert Pecota Vineyards, Monterey County, San Bernabe Vineyard, $12. Here is a wine that favors the grassy, weedy side of the Sauvignon Blanc personality and also shows some of its nicer minerally and citrusy potential. It is balanced but a little rounder and more supple in feel than many of its peers and needs no aging. The San Bernabe Vineyard, in the southern end of Monterey County, is a name worth remembering; it is likely to be seen on more wine labels.

$ * * St. Supery Vineyards, Napa Valley, $14. This fairly expressive wine is pleasantly varietal throughout, with distinct citrusy, grassy and weedy pungency to its solid fruit. Long on the palate, fairly deep and remarkably light on its feet at the finish, it will make a wonderful companion to grilled fish. It is another in the list of exceptionally good values.

$ 2000 Shenandoah Vineyards, Amador County, $8. Hints of pear and fig are added to the clean, light fragrances given off by this somewhat candied but delightfully quaffable effort. Make a note to put this one on the list of wines that will provide great joy at those of end-of-summer parties.

$ * 1999 Simi Winery, Sonoma County, $11. Properly ripened melon-like fruit serves as a nice backdrop to touches of herbs and creamy oak in the clean, well-composed aromas of this likeable Sauvignon Blanc. It is just a bit coarse on the palate but smoothes out with food. It, too, offers good value for little money.

Symbols

*** A world-class wine, superb by any measure, the top 1% to 2% of all wines tasted.

** A exceptional wine, well worth the effort to find, 10% to 12% of wines tasted.

* An admirable wine, tasty, focused, attractive about 25% of wines tasted.

No Rating: The best are quite pleasant and can be good buys when moderately priced.

$ Good value for the money.

x Below average quality, to be avoided.

This column is based on tasting conducted by Connoisseur’s Guide to California Wine, a monthly newsletter devoted to the critical review of California and West coast wines. Readers of The Times may obtain a sample copy by sending their name and address to: CGCW, P.O. Box V, Alameda, CA 94501, by calling or faxing (510) 865-3150 or by e-mailing CGCW@aol.com.