Moroccan lamb tagine with melting tomatoes and onions
It was in Morocco that I first encountered the ubiquitous two-part cooking vessel called a tagine -- low-rimmed concave plate-like bottom and high cone-shaped top. The vessel is ingenious for the way the top cools steam from the stew (or tagine) simmering below, condenses it, then sends it back down into the cooking food. Using a tagine conjures up the special, almost mystical quality of Moroccan tagines — fresh produce and succulent meat served in a rich, unctuous sauce.
Tagines have become very popular lately, and with good reason. Tagines cook food beautifully, and they are relatively inexpensive. The high conical — or dome-shaped — cover, which fits into the shallow base, acts as a kind of closed chimney. Since the heat on a stovetop comes from below, the top of the cover remains cooler than the rest of the pot, which causes steam to condense and drip back onto the stew, preventing the food from drying out.
I recommend using a glazed earthenware or Flameware tagine, or a 10- or 11-inch Spanish cazuela with a cover. Also, use a heat diffuser for slow, steady cooking (especially if using an electric or ceramic stovetop).
From the story: Clay pot alchemy
Trim any excess fat from the lamb. Cut the chops into 1 1/2 -inch chunks with the bones.
Soak the raisins in warm water for 15 minutes to rehydrate them.
Meanwhile, place the lamb, grated onion, Moroccan spice mixture, cubeb berries or cayenne, saffron, cinnamon stick, 1 teaspoon salt, butter and half the oil in the tagine. Place on a heat diffuser if possible, uncovered, over low heat until the aroma of the spices is released, about 10 minutes. Do not brown the meat. Add the half-cup hot water and gently increase the heat to slowly bring it to a boil.
Drain the raisins. Cover the meat mixture with the onion slices and raisins and spread the tomatoes, cut side down, on top. Cover the tagine, reduce the heat to low and cook until the lamb is tender, about 2 hours.
When the lamb is almost ready, set an oven rack on the middle shelf of the oven. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
Remove the top of the tagine and tilt the pot to pour all the liquid into a medium conventional skillet. Skim the fat off the top of the liquid; then boil it down to three-fourths cup. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread the reduced juices over the tomatoes in the tagine. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick. Scatter the sugar and ground cinnamon on top. Place in the oven and bake, uncovered, for 45 minutes. Switch the oven heat to broil, dribble over the remaining oil, and cook until crusty and lightly charred, about 5 minutes. Serve at once or reheat gently over medium heat.
Just before serving, warm the tortillas, tear them into large pieces, and spread about one-third over a large serving platter. Spoon about half the contents of the tagine on top. Repeat with another third of the tortillas and the remaining contents of the tagine. Top with the last of the tortillas and a sprinkling of parsley and serve at once.
Moroccan Spice Mix
Combine the ginger, turmeric, black pepper, cinnamon, cubeb berries and nutmeg and shake well to mix thoroughly. Store, tightly covered for up to 6 months.
The flour tortillas are a substitution for Moroccan flatbread.
Cubeb pepper can be ordered online.
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